Eyebrow Mapping

The Right Shape

The basic shape of the eyebrows and the direction in which the hairs grow cannot be changed. However, all eyebrows should be shaped so that they are thicker at the head of the brow (the part closest to the nose) and then gradually get thinner.

Everyone’s face and brow shape are different; there are five basic brow shapes that can be identified, which can also have a number of variations to them. Each of the five shapes has the ability to change the appearance of other facial features, therefore it is important to choose the right shape for the client

Brow Shape	Description	Face Shape
Flat Brows	These brows are ideal for clients with a long face shape as the horizontal line creates the illusion of a shorter face with a more oval appearance.
Round Brows	The round shape of these brows is perfect for trying to create a softness to the face. Perfect for clients with sharp features to help minimise their appearance.
Curved Brows	Curved brows are completely different to round brow shapes. They are perfect for clients that do not want too much softness to their features and can work really well on square face shapes.
Angled Brows	The high arch of angled brows have the ability to create a more youthful appearance and can make round or diamond face shapes appear slimmer.
Soft Angled Brows	Similar to the above but with a much shorter arch and a softer peak. The soft angle is great for a more feminine look and perfect for an oval face.	E

Influences affecting the Shape of your Clients Brows

Natural Brow Shape	If the client has shaped her own brows for a long period of time, they may need to let them grow to get their desired shape.
Clients Age	Mature clients may have coarse hairs which can be longer, straight or in different colours.
Fashion Trends	Fashion trends may affect the client’s brows permanently. Especially if thin or over-plucked brows become the fashion.

Measuring the Brows

Once a consultation has been carried out, and a shape decided the brows should be measured to create the perfect shape and symmetry

To measure the brows:

· Place an orange stick in a straight line from the side of the nose to the inner corner of the eye. This is where the eyebrows should begin.

· Place the orange stick from the side of the nose to the outer corner of the eye, and this is where the eyebrow should end.

· Ask the client to look straight ahead and place the orange stick from the side of the nose through the outer cornea part of the eye. This is the highest point of the arch.

· Holding the stick vertically so that it runs from the inner brow line to the top of the ear. Draw a line between both the bottom and top of the brow bulb. This ensures the brows are symmetrical.

Accent Eyebrows

Feature	Objective	Correction
Deep Set Eyes	Open up Low Brows	Create a ‘Higher’ brow which will open up the eyes and brows. If brows are light, consider adding a darker highlight colour of hair strokes for a tri-dimensional look.
Round Eyes	Elongate eyes and brows	Create a strong arch and extend the brow shape to the outer corner of the eye.
Wide-Set Eyes	Make eyes appear bigger	Draw hair strokes at the medial portion of the brow to bring brows closer together.
Droopy Eyes	Angle brow upward	Create hair strokes in an elevated angle at the lateral portion of the eyebrows to create the illusion of height.
Prominent Eyes	Offset roundness of lids	Create hair strokes to sharpen the arch.
Close set Eyes	Widen eyes and brows	If brows are too close together, remove hair to create the appearance of wider brows. You may also need to extend the brow in the lateral portion of the brow.

Eyebrow Shapes

The following table gives information of the desired brow shapes needed to compliment the different face shapes.

Shape of Face	Shape of Brows
Round	Brows should be kept short and placed high, so as not to elongate the width of the face.
Square	Brows should be smoothly arched in direct proportion with pupils and cheek bones. The aim is not to create more angles.
Oval	Brows should angle upwards at the ends.
Long	Brows should be kept as level as possible with a slight curve at the lateral portion of the brow.

Eyebrow Technique

There is no right or wrong needle cartridge to use for brows and then techniques can vary from hairstrokes, shaded hairstrokes, ombre brows, combination brows and powder shading. The brow area must remain stretched at all times and needles used at 90 degrees to the skin. You can pre-draw hairstrokes to avoid mis-matching them using a sharpened pencil. You should remove small sections of the primary outline before wiping off the whole area and losing your outline.