The skin:

The skin is the largest organ of the body as it covers the entire surface – an area of between 1.2 and 2 square metres and accounts for approximately 12% of our body weight. It moulds to and moves with our body. It is our protective layer to cover our other vital organs. The skin has to be tough to protect us from constant chemical and physical assault yet sensitive and responsive to subtle changes in the internal and external environment.

Functions of the skin:

The functions of the skin can easily be remembered by the acronym SHAPES

S – SENSITIVTITY

H – HEAT REGILATION

A – ABSORPTION

P – PROTETION AND PRODUCTION OF VITAMIN D

E – EXCRETION

S – SECRETION

Sensitivity – Nerve ending s in the skin provide us information to our brains to detect touch, pain, heat and pressure

Heat regulation – The body temperature is maintained at an average of 36.8 degrees centigrade. The skins role in this is 3-fold:

1. Wren the body temperature is too high, the blood vessels dilate allowing more blood to the surface and so heat is radiated from the skin.
2. When the body temperature is too high, the sweat glands are stimulated to secrete sweat, which cools the skins surface.
3. When the body temperature drops, the erector Pilli muscles contract causing the body’s hair to stand up trapping the air close to the surface and keeping the heat in.

Absorption – The hair follicles and sebaceous ducts are able to absorb moisture, thus keeping the skin supple. The skin also has the ability to absorb nicotine patches and products such as creams and emollients.

Protection – The is the skins prime function, in response to friction, the epidermis thickens so providing cushioning. It prevents the invasion of bacteria and acts as a waterproof barrier. It also produces melanin to protect the skin against harmful UV rays. It also protects us from invasion of foreign bodies and bacteria.

Excretion – The skin excretes waste material via the sweat glands.

Secretion – The sebaceous glands secrete an oily substance called sebum onto the surface of the skin. This creates an acid mantle over the skin, which is of great importance in limiting the activity of bacteria

Structure of the skin:

The skin consists of 3 main layers:

• The epidermis
• The dermis
• The subcutaneous layer

 

The epidermis:

This is the most superficial layer. It varies in thickness, being the thickest on the soles of the feet and the palms of the hand. It is significantly thinner on the face and thinner still on the delicate eyelids. The epidermis contains no blood vessels or nerves. It acts as the body’s main protective barrier, preventing water loss and providing some protection to external attack.

The epidermis may be divided into 2 zones:

The Horny Zone – contains 3 further layers. The upper most is called the Stratum Corneum, this is composed of cells that have no protective oils and if exposed to sunlight, will become dry and flaky. The outer layers of the dead cells is continually being shed.

The 2 lower layers of the horny zone are called the Clear layer or Stratum lucidum and the Granular layer or Stratum Granulosum. Both layers contain more moisture and link the living cells of the epidermis to the dead ones above

The Germinal Zone – This zone is divided into 2 layers. The first is the prickle layer it is also known as the spinosum layer

However, the most effective is the Basal or germinative layer. It is in this layer that the new epidermal cells are constantly being produced. The cells last about 6 weeks before being discarded into the horny layer. Contained in the basal or germinative layer is a substance called melanocytes, which is responsible for giving skin its colour. Melanocytes react to UV light by producing melanin to act as a barrier against UV light penetration causing the skin to darken (Tan)

The dermis:

The dermis is sometimes referred to as the true skin. The dermis is formed of tough, flexible, connecting tissue and contains the following:

Capillaries – fine blood carrying vessels which carry oxygen and nutrients to the skin and take away waste products such as carbon dioxide.

Lymph vessels – these drain away waste products from the cells and take them to a lymph node which filters foreign bodies from the clear fluid known as lymph then returns the lymph to the main circulation.

Sensory nerve endings – carry impulses to the brain

Sweat glands – otherwise known as sudorific glands. They are found all over the body. There are 2 types of sweat glands – Apocrine, which are found mainly in the groin and axillae (underarm) area. Their function is to regulate body temperature and eliminate waste materials. Usually Apocrine glands open into a hair follicle. The sweat generated by these glands mixes with bacteria on the skins surface and causes body odour.

The second type of sweat gland is known as the eccrine gland and is found all over the body. These glands excrete water and salt.

Sebaceous glands – they are found all over the body, usually open into a hair follicle. They secrete an oily substance called sebum which is responsible for keeping the skin moisturised and the hair soft. The amount of sebum secrete onto the skins surface determines whether the skin is dry, normal or oily.

The subcutaneous layer:

The subcutaneous layer separates the dermis from the underlying muscle and permits the skin to move easily over it. Contained within this layer are nerve endings, blood, lymph vessels and fat cells. The fat cells act as a store and are usually thicker in woman than men. The fat stores help to reduce heat loss from the body.

Label the skin structure below:

 

 

Skin types:

In order to select the correct products for the client’s skin, her skin should be carefully assessed before carrying out the treatment. Skin is usually described as balanced/normal, dry, oily, sensitive, combination

Balanced/normal:

Balanced skin has a good balanced of oil and water, therefore the skin is soft and supple. The pores of the skin are small, and the texture is fine and even. The skin will appear clear and clean and rarely will it develops spots or blemishes.

Dry:

Dry skin is caused by insufficient secretion of sebum. Dry skin has a matt uneven texture as there is insufficient sebum on the skins surface to lubricate it and keep the surface skin cells compacted as the greasy coating produced by sebum is absent the surface cells of the skin curl up and flake and natural moisture is lost from the upper layers of the skin.

Dry skin often has a fine texture and can look and feel tight. It will show fine lines and wrinkles, particularly around the eyes and mouth from quite a early age. Often, dry skin will also be sensitive and is likely to develop broken capillaries.

Oily:

Over secretion of sebum cases oily skin. The surface of the skin appears shin, thick and course. The pores of the skin will often be enlarged, and blackheads and spots are often present.

Oily skin may be aggravated by over-stimulating the sebaceous glands further by too harsh cleaning, over heating with a facial sauna or by a poor diet.

Sensitive:

Many skins are sensitive, but in beauty therapy this is used to describe extremely sensitive skin. Sensitive skins react to the most minor changes by flushing easily, causing redness, which may appear in patches. Sensitive skin often has permanently dilated capillaries

Combination:

A combination skin is most commonly a mixture of dry and oily skin types. Very often the cheeks, side of the face, around the eyes and neck area will be dry and the forehead, nose and chin will be dry.

Skin analysis:

Prior to carrying out a facial treatment, the client’s skin should be inspected and the condition of the skin record on the consultation sheet. A copy of the consultation sheet recommended for use is included at the back of this manual.

Explain to the client that you are going to examine their skin and record your findings. Make it clear to the client that this information s for your records only and in line with Data protection Act policies and procedures will be treated in the strictest of confidence.

Study the colour of the skin:

• Is the skin red and irritated?
• Is the skin sallow?
• Is the skin pink and healthy?
• Is the skin pigmented?

Study the skins texture:

• Is the skin shiny?
• Is the skin matt?
• Is the skin texture even?
• Is the skin texture the same all over the face?
• Is the skin flaky?
• Is the skin lined finely around the mouth and eyes?
• Is the skin crepy?

Study the general condition of the skin:

• Are spots present?
• Are blackheads resent?
• Are there broken capillaries?
• Does the skin look tight?
• Does the skin look thin and transparent?
• Does the skin look irritated?

As The skin is a living organ, its condition does change from season to season. It is a good idea to ask the client a few questions about their skin. This will help you with your diagnosis of the skin ad to give them relevant aftercare advice.

Ask the client:

• If she has a regular skin care routine?
• Does she ever skin care products or soap on her face?
• Is her skin regularly exposed to the sun?
• Does she feel she has any problems with her skin?
• Is her skin prone to any reactions, allergic or sensitivity?

Very often clients will ask you to recommend products for them to use at home to improve the skin care routines. An accurate skin diagnosis is essential before recommendations can be made. It is also important to understand the clients requirements and how much time, effort and money she is prepared to invest into skincare.

Skin Terminology

Term	Definition
Elastin	Protein found in skin. Provides bounce back Depletes with age- wrinkles After pregnancy , weight gain etc, saggy skin
Collagen	Fibrous protein Connects and supports body tissues such as skin, muscles, bone, tendons and cartilage
Keratin	Strong protein, major component of skin, hair, nails and teeth Made from amino acids and can be flexible and inflexible Most of the keratin we come into contact with is dead.
Amino acids	Building blocks of proteins which band together in chains Ingested from food. Many different types
Adipose tissue	Cells capable of storing fat
Melanin	Also known as pigment, gives the hair and skin its natural colour. In skin formed from cells called melanocytes. Albinism is a lack of melanin. Protects from harmful UV rays.
Cellulite	Pockets of fat trapped in the skin causing dimpling/orange peel effect. Forms in subcutaneous layer.
Osmosis	Passage of water from an area of high-water concentration through a semi permeable membrane to a region of low water concentration.
Osmoregulation	Regulation of the amount of water and mineral salts in the blood. Carried out by kidneys after direction from the hypothalamus.
Homeostasis	The balance or equilibrium of the body. The regulation of all the body’s systems.
Diffusion	Movement of molecules from an area of high concentration to a lower concentration
Dispersion	Scattering over an area
Dilution	Reduction of concentration

Products/masks/peel:

A face mask removes surface dirt and dead cells from the skin. Masks can be used to stimulate and refine the skin, or to soothe and nourish, depending on the type of mask and the ingredients contained within it. A face mask act as a quick pick up, temporarily tightening the pores and firming the skin. It perks the circulation, soothes and relaxes facial muscles and makes the complexion appear brighter and fresher.

Mask can be setting or non-setting and. Non setting masks refresh and cool the skin. They are east to apply and remove and may be used to treat specific skin problems. Setting masks contain natural earth ingredients that draw out impurities from the skin. Setting masks dry on the skin and tend to be more difficult to remove, however they do make the skin feel very clean and fresh.

Different types of face masks:

There are a wide range of face masks available on the market, from skin care brands to basic ingredients and now more advanced to chemical peels. The four basic masks are:

• Clay based
• Peel off
• Thermal
• Biological

Clay masks and lotions are mixed together to form the mask. This is a very flexible, cost effective way of offering tailor made masks to suit your clients’ needs. It is possible to make setting and non-setting masks to suit any skin type using these ingredients.

Clay ingredients:

Kaolin – A white powder, it has a drawing effect which is deep cleansing and is useful for bringing spots and skin blockages to a head.

Fullers Earth – A green/grey powder. Very absorbent and cleansing. Ideal for oily skins with blackheads.

Magnesium Carbonate – A white, fine powder, mildly astringent, tightens pores and softens the skin.

Calamine – A pink powder, produces a soothing action which reduces high colouring and soothes the skin.

These clays are mixed with a suitable lotion to form a creamy paste.

The most common lotions used are:

• Witch hazel for greasy skin
• Rosewater for normal skin
• Almond oil for mature, dry and sensitive skins

Peel-off masks:

These are purchased ready-made and are based on waxes, such as paraffin wax, gums, latex or plastic resins which are applied wet but dry out on the skin forming a film. This type of mask promotes the skin to sweat and increases the amount of surface moisture. They are deep cleansing and stimulate the blood supply, making the skin go slightly pink. Peel-off masks have a milder effect than clay masks. They are easy to remove as they are designed to peel off in one piece.

Thermal masks:

The ingredients contained within these masks generate heat, which warms the skin. This type of mask has a powerful deep cleansing, stimulating and tightening effect in the skin. Creams may be applied underneath the mask- the heat produced by the mask will encourage effective absorption of the cream. As this mask sets hard, clients who are nervous or claustrophobic are not suitable for this treatment.

Biological masks:

Biological masks are based on natural ingredients such as plant, flower o fruit extracts. Biological masks are gentle but very effective. The mask forms a film over the skin but does not dry. Biological masks are usually purchased ready-made.

Mask recipes

Normal skin	1 scoop of kaolin 1 scoop of magnesium Mixed with rosewater
Dry skin	1 scoop of kaolin 1 scoop of magnesium Mixed with oil
Oily skin	1 scoop of fullers earth Mixed with witch hazel
Sensitive skin	1 scoop of calamine 1 scoop of magnesium Mixed with rosewater or oil

Facial products:

Cleansing Products

Soap: This is made from fat and lye, which is alkaline in its PH. It therefore tens to remove natural oil from the skin. However, there are many different types of soap – some are moisturising soaps for dry skin, medicated soaps for greasy skin and un-perfumed/hypoallergenic soaps for sensitive skins.

Soap less Cleansers: These are gentler on the skin than soap and can be recommended to those who do not feel clean unless they have soap and water on their face.

Cleansing milk: Suitable for many different skin types. Cleansing milks are an emulsion made from differing proportions of water and oil and are more suitable for removal of light water based make up.

Cleansing cream: Suitable for use on dry, dehydrated, mature or normal skin – NOT ON OILY SKIN. As an oily skin is particularly susceptible to spots, the use of oily/greasy products should be completely avoided. Spots feed on grease, so if extra grease is added to an already problem skin, the spots will increase.

Skin tonics/toners

Skin tonics: Suitable for normal, dry, dehydrated, sensitive and mature skins. They help to remove all traces of cleanser. Toning lotions have an astringent effect on the skin which cools and refreshes. Strong astringents temporality tightens the skin and make the pores appear smaller.

Toing lotions help to restore the acid balance of the skin and are applied to the skin between different stages within the facial treatment.

Exfoliants

To exfoliate means to peel off in scales or layers. All types of skin benefit from the weekly use of exfoliating products to brighten the complexion and refine the skin texture. Special skin treatments are more effective when applied after using an exfoliant.

Moisturisers

Moisturising cream: This contains a high percentage of oil and a low percentage of water. moisturise which is lost from the skin needs replacing quickly so that the surface of the skin is kept soft and smooth. The living cells in the deeper layers of the skin need water so they will not shrivel and die. Moisturising creams are suitable for mature, dry, dehydrated, normal and sensitive skins.

Liquid moisturiser/ Moisturising milk: This contains a high percentage of oil. It provides a lightweight protection to oily or blemished skins without adding greasiness.

Good advice for healthy balanced skin:

• Eat a balanced diet which includes plenty of fresh fruit, vegetables and fibre. Foods containing vitamins A,B and C are particularly important for a healthy skin.
• Drink Plenty of water – this helps to maintain a healthy water balance in the body and speeds up the elimination of waste and toxins which can affect the skin.
• Get enough sleep – remember that the rate of skin cell repair and replacement increases when we are asleep. Tiredness and exhaustion deprive the skin of the energy it needs to recover and regenerate.
• Protect the skin – a balance kin can easily become dry if it is not protected from the weather, extremes of temperature, central heating, sunlight, pollution and cosmetics. Wear a moisturiser to create a barrier between the skin and outside elements. Avid exposing the skin to strong sunlight.
• Exercise regularly apart from stimulating the flow of blood and supply of oxygen to the body tissues, regular exercise speeds up cell division and helps to build collagen.
• Keep the skin clean – do not allow dirt and grime to build up which could block the pores and irritate the skin.
• Avoid harsh treatment – do not pull or stretch the skin. Be gentle when washing the face and using skin-care products. Remember that blood vessels are very near the surface of the skin and can be easily damaged.
• Do not smoke – besides being extremely hazardous to general health, smoking produces gases which are carried around the body in the blood stream in preference to oxygen. As a consequence, the cells do not receive enough nourishment. The skin suffers oxygen starvation. Other chemicals produced in the body by smoking, interfere with the protein fibres in the skin and deplete the body of vitamin C which is essential for healthy skin.
• Control the intake of alcohol – alcohol raises the blood pressure and causes the capillaries to dilate. Over a period of time, this can cause the walls of the capillaries to rupture and become permanently damaged. In the short term, excessive alcohol produces chemicals in the body, which dehydrate the skin. In the longer term, puffiness of the tissues, coarsening of the texture of skin texture, fine lines and wrinkles and chronic redness of the skin occur.

Facial procedure:

• Cleanse lips and eyes
• First cleanse – remove with damp sponges or hot towels
• Second (deep) cleanse – remove with damp sponges or hot towels
• Blot with a tissue
• Exfoliate – remove with damp sponges or hot towels
• Steam – optional
  • Extractions if necessary
  • Massage
  • Remove excess oil or cream
  • Apply maskhand or scalp massage
  • Remove mask with damp sponges or hot towels
  • Apply toner
  • Apply moisturiser

• Cleansing routine:

  • Apply cleanser
  • Circle with fingertips on the chest
  • Stroke up the neck
  • Stroke across neck and jawbone
  • Palmer stroking on the sides of the face
  • Using light circuit movements with your fingertips, work from the chin to the ears, towards the nose, up the sides of the nose and across the forehead, finishing at the temples.
  • Remove with damp sponges or hot towels

  Deep cleanse:

  • Apply cleanser
  • Circle with fingertips on the chest
  • Stroke up the neck
  • Stroke across neck and jawbone
  • Palmer stroking on the sides of the face
  • Using fingertips, circle from chin to ears, towards the nose, up the sides of the nose and across the forehead, Slide the fingers back to the chin and repeat 3 times.
  • Scissor movement on the forehead, finishing at the temples.
  • Remove with damp sponges or hot towels