Skin types

Skin types:

In order to select the correct products for the clients skin, her skin should be carefully assessed before carrying out the treatment. Skin is usually described as balanced/normal, dry, oily, sensitive, combination

Balanced/normal:

Balanced skin has a good balanced of oil and water, therefore the skin is soft and supple. The pores of the skin are small and the texture is fine and even. The skin will appear clear and clean and rarely will it develops spots or blemishes.

Dry:

Dry skin is caused by insufficient secretion of sebum. Dry skin has a matt uneven texture as there is insufficient sebum on the skins surface to lubricate it and keep the surface skin cells compacted as the greasy coating produced by sebum is absent the surface cells of the skin curl up and flake and natural moisture is lost from the upper layers of the skin.

Dry skin often has a fine texture and can look and feel tight. It will show fine lines and wrinkles, particularly around the eyes and mouth from quite a early age. Often, dry skin will also be sensitive and is likely to develop broken capillaries.

Oily:

Over secretion of sebum cases oily skin. The surface of the skin appears shin, thick and course. The pores of the skin will often be enlarged and blackheads and spots are often present.

Oily skin may be aggravated by over-stimulating the sebaceous glands further by too harsh cleaning, over heating with a facial sauna or by a poor diet.

Sensitive:

Many skins are sensitive, but in beauty therapy this is used to describe extremely sensitive skin. Sensitive skins react to the most minor changes by flushing easily, causing redness, which may appear in patches. Sensitive skin often has permanently dilated capillaries

Combination:

A combination skin is most commonly a mixture of dry and oily skin types. Very often the cheeks, side of the face, around the eyes and neck area will be dry and the forehead, nose and chin will be dry.

Skin analysis:

Prior to carrying out a treatment, the clients skin should be inspected and the condition of the skin record on the consultation sheet. A copy of the consultation sheet recommended for use is included at the back of this manual.

Explain to the client that you are going to examine their skin and record your findings. Make it clear to the client that this information s for your records only and in line with Data protection Act policies and procedures will be treated in the strictest of confidence.

Study the colour of the skin:

• Is the skin red and irritated?
• Is the skin sallow?
• Is the skin pink and healthy?
• Is the skin pigmented?

Study the skins texture:

• Is the skin shiny?
• Is the skin matt?
• Is the skin texture even?
• Is the skin texture the same all over the face?
• Is the skin flaky?
• Is the skin lined finely around the mouth and eyes?
• Is the skin crepy?

Study the general condition of the skin:

• Are spots present?
• Are blackheads resent?
• Are there broken capillaries?
• Does the skin look tight?
• Does the skin look thin an transparent?
• Does the skin look irritated?

As The skin is a living organ, its condition does change from season to season. It is a good idea to ask the client a few questions about their skin. This will help you with your diagnosis of the skin ad to give them relevant aftercare advice.

Ask the client:

• If she has a regular skin care routine?
• Does she ever skin care products or soap on her face?
• Is her skin regularly exposed to the sun?
• Does she feel she has any problems with her skin?
• Is her skin prone to any reactions, allergic or sensitivity?

Very often clients will ask you to recommend products for them to use at home to improve the skin care routines. An accurate skin diagnosis is essential before recommendations can be made. It is also important to understand the clients requirements and how much time, effort and money she is prepared to invest into skincare.

Skin Terminology

The Fitzpatrick scale:

The Fitzpatrick scale (also Fitzpatrick skin typing test; or Fitzpatrick photo typing scale) is a numerical classification schema for human skin color. It was developed in 1975 by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick as a way to estimate the response of different types of skin to ultraviolet (UV) light.

This scale is used by dermatologists and aesthetic medicine practitioners to determine which treatments are best suited for different skin types.

TYPE 1:

• Highly sensitive
• Always burns
• Never tans

Example; a person with red hair and freckles, this skin type is more likely to bleed during a derma pen treatment

Think fragile like an egg, with super thin skin, almost translucent – bleeds immediately on needle contact

TYPE 2:

• Very sun sensitive
• Burns easily
• Tans minimally

Example; a person who is fair skinned. Fair haired Caucasians

Think grape, thin but not as much as an egg, tiny pores, ivory/fair skin tone. Can bleed easily, Fitzpatrick 1-2

TYPE 3:

• Sun sensitive skin
• Sometimes burns
• Slowly tans to a light brown

Example; a darker Caucasian

TYPE 4:

• Burns minimally
• Always tans well
• Tans to moderate brown – think

Think apple, small pores, non-translucent, doesn’t bleed easily – this is the preferred skin type Fitzpatrick 2-6

TYPE 5:

• Sun reactions rarely occur
• Minimal freckles
• Almost never burns
• Always tans

TYPE 6:

• Has dark brown or black skin
• Tans easily
• Almost never burns
• This skin type is more prone to keloid scarring

Think orange, large pores, oily skin, can bleed or not at all, fitzpatrick 2-6

Glogau Classification of photoaging:

The Glogau classification system was developed to objectively measure the severity of wrinkles and photoaging (the premature aging of the skin, which is usually caused by too much exposure to ultraviolet rays). This classification system helps practitioners pick the most appropriate procedures for treatment. Find out where you rank on the system and learn how to prevent wrinkles and photoaging with sunscreen.​​

This is not a necessarily true representation of a client’s skin, it is advisable to take the clients skin as you see it.

Exposure to ultraviolet light (either UVA or UVB rays) from sunlight accounts for 90 percent of the symptoms of premature skin aging, including wrinkles. The most important skincare product that’s available to prevent wrinkles is sunscreen, but most people do not use sunscreen correctly. Important factors to consider with sunscreen use are:

• The spectrum of UV radiation that’s absorbed by the sunscreen.
• The amount of sunscreen that’s applied. 
• The frequency of application. 

Type of UV Radiation

The sun gives off ultraviolet UV radiation that is divided into categories based on wavelengths.

• UVC radiation: is absorbed by the atmosphere and does not cause skin damage. 
• UVB radiation: affects the outer layer of skin (the epidermis) and is the primary agent that’s responsible for sunburns. UVB does not penetrate glass and the intensity of UVB radiation depends on the time of day and the season. 
• UVA radiation: penetrates deeper into the skin and works more efficiently. The intensity of UVA radiation is more constant than UVB, without the variations during the day and throughout the year. Unlike UVB rays, UVA rays can penetrate glass.

UV Radiation and Wrinkles 

Both UVA and UVB radiation cause wrinkles by breaking down collagen, creating free radicals, and inhibiting the natural repair mechanisms of the skin. A popular classification system of sun sensitivity is the Skin Photptype (SPT) classification. People with skin types I and II are at the highest risk for photoaging effects, including wrinkles and skin cancer. The proper use of sunscreen to block both UVA and UVB radiation is an important weapon in the battle against wrinkles.