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Products and their uses

Facial treatment stages: Cleansing

All skin types benefit from a good cleansing routine.  No facial of any kind should be commenced before the face has been properly cleansed.  Cleansing removes the dead skin cells from the skin that are continually being shed.  Particles of dust, natural secretions from the sebaceous and sweat glands and stale make up are also removed during the cleansing process – if these are left on the skins surface, spots, blackheads and blocked pores are more likely to occur.  Deep cleansing lifts away waste matter and oils enabling the skin to function more easily and to freshen its’ appearance.

The skin should be handled gently to avoid over-stimulating and stretching.  All cleansing movements should be upward movements.

All product brands will have their own formulas and active ingredients that are specific to them, but they will be based on a basic science when it comes to the base of the product.

Types of cleansers

Cleansing lotion

These products do not usually contain oil, and therefore not ways suitable to stubborn remove facial cosmetics. They are detergent solutions in water. Often preferred on oily skin types due to the lack of oil in the product

Good for:

  • Cleansing a normal to combination skin type
  • Treating greasy skin
  • Medicated ingredients can be included in a cleansing formulation and these would be suitable for congested, greasy spotty skin types.

Foaming cleansers

These usually contain a mild detergent which, when added to water, will foam. Other ingredients can be added for the treatment of the different skin types. These are quick to use and are particularly suitable for clients who are busy and want to use water instead of traditional cleansing products

Good for:

  • Treating most skin types including sensitive or very dry skin types depending on manufacturer and ingredients within foaming cleanser.

Facial treatment stages: Exfoliating

Exfoliators

To exfoliate means to shed off excess dead skin, can be called desquamating.  All skin types benefit from exfoliating to brighten the complexion and refine the skin texture. Taking away the excess dead skin can have the following benefits-

  • Removes dead skin from oily skins/areas that can build up and cause congestion and discolouration.
  • Removes the dead skin on dry skin that can cause it to look matte in appearance therefore giving the skin a glow
  • Reduces the appearance of hyper-pigmentation and fine lines
  • Allows for better penetration of the products that follow exfoliation

Types of exfoliators

Chemical exfoliators

Alphahydroxyacids (AHAs) or enzymes: are derived from natural products, e.g. Glycolic or lactic acid which help to weaken the bonds that holds the stratum corneum cells in place.

Gritty exfoliators

Pore grains or scrubs: generally contain fine spheres of crushed ingredients which are in a cream formula or mixed with water and massaged over the skin’s surface. These spheres will catch the skin and lift it off.

Facial treatment stages: Masks

There are many different types of masks to choose from:

  1. Setting types, e.g. clay based, peel off masks
  2. Non-setting types, e.g. gel
  3. Specialist masks, e.g. sheet masks

The choice will probably depend on the suitability to the skin type.

Commercially prepared packs and masks are very easy to use. The preparation time is minimal, making them ideal for salon treatments. You must follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding any mixing, applying and removal. They are usually available for all skin types and conditions. Often, they can be customised for the individual client.

Masks can be used to stimulate and refine the skin, or to soothe and nourish, depending on the type of mask and the ingredients contained within it.  A face mask act as a quick pick up, temporarily tightening the pores and firming the skin.  It perks the circulation, soothes and relaxes facial muscles and makes the complexion appear brighter and fresher.

Mask can be setting or non-setting and.  Non setting masks refresh and cool the skin.  They are easy to apply and remove and may be used to treat specific skin problems.  Setting masks contain natural earth ingredients that draw out impurities from the skin.  Setting masks dry on the skin and tend to be more difficult to remove, however they do make the skin feel very clean and fresh.

Facial treatment stages: Toners

There are three main types of toners to suit different skin types. They are often used, in a facial, to remove residue of prior products and leave the skin feeling fresh and clean. Toners produce a cooling effect on the skin when the alcohol or water contained in the toner evaporates from the skin’s surface. Toners also contain a chemical, called astringent, which has a tightening effect on the skin, this will help with minimising fine lines. In addition to this it will close the pores, therefore reducing visible open pores and reduce sebum amount on the skin. A toner can also helps to restore the acidic pH balance.

Toners can come in a liquid form that is applied to the skin via cotton pads or in a spray formula which is misted over the skin.

Skin fresheners and bracers

Generally contain no alcohol and are very mild, often containing floral extracts and purified water which makes them suitable for: Sensitive and delicate skin types, Dry, delicate skin, Mature sensitive skin

Skin tonics

Generally contain a mixture of a natural astringents, e.g. witch hazel (a natural astringent agent), making them stronger than a freshener but weaker than an alcohol based astringent. Suitable for: Normal and combination skin types.

Astringents

Generally contain either high levels of alcohol or antiseptic ingredients which helps to reduce oil on the skin’s surface and aid healing of blemished skin. Suitable for Oily skins with no sensitivity Mild acne and congested skin

Facial treatment stages: Moisturisers

Moisturisers help lubricate and hydrate the skin, keeping it soft and supple. All skins need to prevent dehydration, so various different formulations are produced based on skin types and needs. Moisturisers are a basic mix of oil and water to create an emulsion. This mix will contains humectants to attract moisture to the skin, which prevents the skin from drying out. It needs to be applied after cleansing and toning the skin to complete skin routine.  Often oily and younger skin types will skip this product but it is important to educate the client on the need of using a correct product for their skin.

 

Moisturising lotions

These are a liquid which have a consistency that is a light formula containing around 90 per cent water and 10 per cent oil and are suitable for: Normal skin, Combination skin, Oily skin

Moisturising creams

Are thicker in consistency, containing around 80 per cent oil and 20 per cent water making them suitable for: Dry skin, mature skin

SPFs- sun protection factor

These should be applied at the end of all facial treatments, where possible. UV rays do the most damage to any skin type and it needs to be protected as much as possible. A minimum factor to apply would be SPF 15 but SPF30-50+ is best. Sometimes SPF ingredients are in day creams and foundations.