Pigments

Pigments

Pigments

  • Purchase pigments with tamper-proof packaging.
  • Always buy your pigment from a reputable manufacturer.
  • Bottles of pigment always have a lot # and expiry date on them.
  • We have found pigment has a fairly short shelf-life; make a note on the bottle of the date it was first opened.
  • The pigment does not need to be sterile; however, once the bottle is open, it is no longer sterile.
  • Pigment should be within the 6-8-micron range to prevent possible migration.
  • Pigment viscosity should be on the thick side as thin pigment does not have the same level of pigment saturation and will need several applications.
  • Once the pigment is placed into the dermis, the wetting solutions evaporate, and the oxide particles revert back to their natural dry state in the dermis.
  • Most technicians do not like to use pigment that stays creamy for long periods of time in their pigment pots. They prefer to use pigment that dries fast as this allows the area to heal quicker.
  • Store pigments tightly sealed and in a cool dark cabinet.
  • Shake pigments really well before use to ensure proper disbursement of pigments.
  • Establish if your pigment is a cool or warm base before use.
  • If pigment becomes too thick, use a few drops of rewetting solution.
  • Use multi colours on one procedure for much more realistic results.
  • Create a wash effect by adding a rewetting solution to your pigment.
  • Mix colours using your lightest colour first, as you will mix less pigment this way.
  • Every application of pigment builds up the colour volume in the skin.
  • The undertones of all black pigments start out blue-based. Add a few drops or a warm brown or pumpkin-orange to your pot, or use a warm black colour.
  • Patch test clients with known allergies or sensitivities.
  • Use lip pigments with Titanium Dioxide for greater coverage.
  • Never mix colours from different manufacturers.
  • Never reuse or save pigment.
  • Do not use reddish browns near the eye area as it will make the eye look bloodshot.
  • Do not add white pigment to your existing colour as it can heal in the skin and look like milia.
  • Never use titanium dioxide on the client if the client is considering laser treatment as this can turn the pigment black until it is absorbed by the body.

Pigment Facts:

TRUE

Pigment Colour + Skin Tones = The Final Result

  • The only way to tell what the final colour result will be is after the pigment has healed into the skin for at least 4-6 weeks.
  • Pigment colour should not change colour once it’s inserted into the dermis and healed, if the client follows their aftercare instructions exactly and there are no contraindications of the application. 

TRUE

Common sense tells us that the pigment colour inserted into the skin will appear to change because we are looking at the pigment colour through the top layer of skin.

FALSE

Pigment smeared on the surface of the skin will give you an accurate colour diagnosis.

  • Taking into consideration the acidity and alkalinity (pH) of the skin, colours smeared directly on the skin will appear differently than if you were to insert them into the skin.
  • If the client is on medication, they may show different colour results than anticipated.

FALSE

  • Iron oxide pigments are not absorbed by the bloodstream.
  • This rumour was started a few years ago, and it is just that a rumour.
  • Iron oxides have been used by tattoo artists and permanent cosmetic technicians for decades with very little or no complications.
  • And yes, you can still have an MRI scan if you have iron oxide in your eyeliner, lip liner, eyebrows or other body tattoos.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TATTOO AND SPMU INK?

Semi-permanent make-up inks and pigments are not the same as tattoo ink. For a tattoo, the ink is designed to be truly permanent, with minimum chance of fading or colour change,  SPMU pigment/inks is the opposite. SPMU inks and pigments are specially designed to work with the client’s skin tone to give the most natural finish possible. Most tattoo inks are not technically ink, but a mixture of pigments with other ingredients to make them liquid or cream in consistency. To be 100% sure what is in the ink, you would need to contact the supplier for an ingredients list (MSDS – Material Safety Data Sheet), or create your own.

*Tina Davies MSDS sheets are all available on the Tina Davies website.

COMPOSITION OF INK

Pigments are suspended in a carrier solution, which may be a single solution or a mixture. The carrier keeps the pigment evenly distributed, prevents growth of pathogens, and ensures application to the skin is smooth via anti- clumping agents. The safest, or most common ingredients used are:

➡ ethyl alcohol (ethanol)

➡ Witch Hazel

➡ Listerine

➡ Glycerine (glycerol)

Whilst there may be debate among these choices, and potentially many more available, these are the typical choices made by tattooists and SPMU artists for creation of their own ink.

The option to this is to buy a ‘pre-dispersed’, or ready mixed ink. This in many cases is safer, however, the ingredient list is not always supplied, and therefore, a trusted supplier is recommended. Some chemicals may be mutagens, or carcinogens, and some may have toxic ingredients, leaving reactions that may not show in the body with immediate effect.

Common pigments are mainly metal salts. Some are plastics, and potentially some vegetable dyes.

Some companies will boast the use of organic pigments, whilst others will be chemically or mineral based.

ORGANIC VS INORGANIC

There are generally 2 types of pigment for SPMU. Iron oxides (inorganic) and Lakes (organics)

  • Iron oxide pigments are reliable. Iron is the most common and stable of the elements. It is non-toxic.
  • Iron oxides have been used for many years in pigments, including those used in permanent cosmetics, traditional cosmetics, foods, and medication. These do not typically give any form of allergic reaction.
  • Organic pigments are generally derived from fruits and vegetables. Whilst this is a natural approach, the risk of allergy is higher and people have an intolerance to certain food types.

Darker inks (inks sold as super-black), or inks that have been diluted with glycerine to go further or alter colour are likely to cause ink migration. This is where the ink spreads within the skin and causes shading in areas of than the service area. It can also be the case if the medial or lateral canthus are tattooed as ink will spread into the ducts.