Factors to consider when determining brow shapes

Factors to consider when determining brow shapes:

The following factors should be considered when deterring eyebrow shape

• The length of the eyebrow is normally 5 cm
• The arch should be the highest point of the eyebrow
• The positioning of the arch normally between the pupil and the lateral edge of the iris
• The bulb of the brow should begin in line with the flare of the nostrils and medial canthus of the eye
• The bulb of the brow should be positioned, no longer than 15 mm from the medial canthus of the eye, making the beginning of the bulb too low and too close can create a ‘frowning’ appearance
• The tail of the brow should sit slightly higher than the bulb of the brow
• Eyebrows are usually thicker toward the bridge of the nose and thin out toward the tail
• The ideal brow shape is softly curved, and should be neither too thick nor to thin

A person with small features would look over powered by heavy brows, while a person with larger features and a larger face needs a more defined eyebrow.

Face shapes

Most clients do not have perfectly shaped eyebrows and are not aware that the unusual shape of their brow could be creating a negative effect on their appearance.  The practitioner needs to learn to communicate with the client and to discuss improvements sympathetically and carefully.

By communicating with the client and using the basic aesthetic rules the practitioner should determine the proper shape for the client’s eyebrows during the consultation.  The practitioner should give the client a visual by drawing the corrected shape using conventional cosmetics.  The visual impact is highlighted if only one side of the face is corrected initially and once the client has noted the difference the other side of the face is also corrected.  If the client is not used to the change it may be advantageous for her to wear the cosmetic enhancement home to show her family and friends.

A wide face can look narrower by adjusting the beginning of the brow closer to the bridge of the nose and placing the arch closer to the pupil rather than the iris.  Be careful not to place the brows too close together.

A narrow face can look wider by placing the arch of the brow in line with lateral aspect of the iris to create the illusion of a width. The beginning of the brow remains in line with the medial canthus of the eye and the flare of the nostril.

A round face can look more angular with an angular arched brow

An angular face can look softer with a rounder brow

• Oval face – consider the classical symmetric face shape
• Diamond face shapes consider the angular face shape
• Pear shape face – consider a narrow shape face (forehead)
• Round face shape – consider as lacking angles
• Oblong face shape – consider as a narrow face shape
• Heart face shape – consider as a wide face shape
• Square face shape -consider as an angular face shape