Determining Skin Tones

There are four major biochromes (natural pigments) found in the skin responsible for determining the overall skin tone. These are melanin, carotene, Oxygenated haemoglobin and deoxygenated haemoglobin.

Melanin: – Produced in the basal cell layer. Our skin colour is primarily due to melanin. There are two forms of melanin – pheomelanin and eumelanin. Pheomelanin Is red and yellow in colour an Eumelanin Is dark brown to black. People with light complexions usually produce more pheomelanin, while dark coloured skins produce more eumelanin. Pheomelanin is particularly concentrated in the lips, nipples and areola tissue.

Carotene: – Responsible for imparting yellow and yellow-orange tones in the skin.

Oxygenated Haemoglobin: – Imparts red tones to the skin

Deoxygenated Haemoglobin: – Imparts the blue to the skin.

Melanosomes

· A melanosome is an organelle found in human cells. They are the site for synthesis, storage and transport of the melanin (the most common light absorbing pigment). They are responsible for colour and photo pro-protection in cells and tissues. Melanin pigment granules are formed within the melanosome

· Melanosomes are tiny round pods with little threads in them. The melanin pigment granule is deposited in these threads

· Tyrosine (an amino acids) converts to dopa-quinone and then eumelanin (brown pigment granules)

· Once the melanosome has been transferred in the ‘cytoplasm of the keratinocytes’, it becomes darker. It is then visible as Melanin.

Common Pigmentation Disorders

Hypopigmentation – Areas with less, little or no pigmentation, usually occur in small area and are often a result of inflammatory conditions

Hyperpigmentation – An area with an increased amount of melanin, can be linked to many causes such as, pregnancy, hormonal disturbances, oral contraceptive use, Addison Disease and certain medications.

Vitiligo- Loss of melanocytes resulting in whitish smooth areas of skin, may appear on large areas of the body or in in several smaller areas.

Melasma – Bumpy dark brown patches of pigmentation often referred to as mask of pregnancy. It usually emerges on the forehead, temples, cheeks or jaw.

Albinism- This is a rare disorder where the skin does not produce melanin

Fitzpatrick Skin Typing

The Fitzpatrick scale:

The Fitzpatrick scale (also Fitzpatrick skin typing test; or Fitzpatrick photo typing scale) is a numerical classification schema for human skin color. It was developed in 1975 by Thomas B. Fitzpatrick as a way to estimate the response of different types of skin to ultraviolet (UV) light.

This scale is used by dermatologists and aesthetic medicine practitioners to determine which treatments are best suited for different skin types.

TYPE 1:

· Highly sensitive

· Always burns

· Never tans

Example; a person with red hair and freckles, this skin type is more likely to bleed during a derma pen treatment

Think fragile like an egg, with super thin skin, almost translucent – bleeds immediately on needle contact

TYPE 2:

· Very sun sensitive

· Burns easily

· Tans minimally

Example; a person who is fair skinned. Fair haired Caucasians

Think grape, thin but not as much as an egg, tiny pores, ivory/fair skin tone. Can bleed easily, Fitzpatrick 1-2

TYPE 3:

· Sun sensitive skin

· Sometimes burns

· Slowly tans to a light brown

Example; a darker Caucasian

TYPE 4:

· Burns minimally

· Always tans well

· Tans to moderate brown – think

Think apple, small pores, non-translucent, doesn’t bleed easily – this is the preferred skin type Fitzpatrick 2-6

TYPE 5:

· Sun reactions rarely occur

· Minimal freckles

· Almost never burns

· Always tans

TYPE 6:

· Has dark brown or black skin

· Tans easily

· Almost never burns

· This skin type is more prone to keloid scarring

Think orange, large pores, oily skin, can bleed or not at all, fitzpatrick 2-6

Glogau Classification of photoaging:

The Glogau classification system was developed to objectively measure the severity of wrinkles and photoaging (the premature aging of the skin, which is usually caused by too much exposure to ultraviolet rays). This classification system helps practitioners pick the most appropriate procedures for treatment. Find out where you rank on the system and learn how to prevent wrinkles and photoaging with sunscreen.

This is not a necessarily true representation of a client’s skin, it is advisable to take the clients skin as you see it.

Exposure to ultraviolet light (either UVA or UVB rays) from sunlight accounts for 90 percent of the symptoms of premature skin aging, including wrinkles. The most important skincare product that’s available to prevent wrinkles is sunscreen, but most people do not use sunscreen correctly. Important factors to consider with sunscreen use are:

The spectrum of UV radiation that’s absorbed by the sunscreen.
The amount of sunscreen that’s applied.
The frequency of application.

Type of UV Radiation

The sun gives off ultraviolet UV radiation that is divided into categories based on wavelengths.

UVC radiation: is absorbed by the atmosphere and does not cause skin damage.
UVB radiation: affects the outer layer of skin (the epidermis) and is the primary agent that’s responsible for sunburns. UVB does not penetrate glass and the intensity of UVB radiation depends on the time of day and the season.
UVA radiation: penetrates deeper into the skin and works more efficiently. The intensity of UVA radiation is more constant than UVB, without the variations during the day and throughout the year. Unlike UVB rays, UVA rays can penetrate glass.

UV Radiation and Wrinkles

Both UVA and UVB radiation cause wrinkles by breaking down collagen, creating free radicals, and inhibiting the natural repair mechanisms of the skin. A popular classification system of sun sensitivity is the Skin Photptype (SPT) classification. People with skin types I and II are at the highest risk for photoaging effects, including wrinkles and skin cancer. The proper use of sunscreen to block both UVA and UVB radiation is an important weapon in the battle against wrinkles.

Skin Types/Tones That cannot be Treated

Indian Ancestry	African Ancestry
Frequently warm with orange red cast	Frequently cool
Often mistaken for Mediterranean but is usually peaches an cream	Most commonly fit into olive (green) or translucent (Blue) categories
Warm bronze or copper skin	Some have warm tones such as bronze or orange
Dark hair and eyes	Skin tone may range from light to very deep
There are also a lot of cool Indian skins so be very careful

Dark/Black Skins

· Black skin cells per layer and a greater concentration of lipids

· People with dark skins have melanocytes capable or making large amounts of melanin

· When black skin is injured; the melanocytes will either hyperpigmented or hypopigmented

· Dark skins have greater natural protection from the sun and a lower risk of skin cancer. They have UVB Protection factor of 13.4% while white skins have only 3.4%

· They have fewer signs of aging such as deep wrinkles, fine lines and sun spots

· They have a greater risk of forming keloid and hypertrophic scars

· Dark/Black skin -above skin type ΙΙΙ – must never be treated with plasma pen (Outside rejuvenation only treatments where the skin is not fully broken)

· If you don’t already have such a device, then you should buy a skin tone sensor from us.

How Hyperpigmentation is caused

· These pigment spots are often found on the face (Mainly on women) but age spots & sun spots, for example, can also be found on the back of the hand and elsewhere. They can be a few mm or cm in size and are usually a blurred dark colouration of large skin areas. Hormones seem to trigger melasma and one of the reason why we don’t treat anyone breastfeeding

· After exposure to the sun or UV rays (Natural or excessive tanning) it can often seen as spotted tanning on the shoulders. Adverse effects can occur in cases of insufficient sun protection, after laser treatment, overly intensive and ablative plasma treatment with so called “medical grade devices” or after chemical peeling.

· It can also be caused by insect bites or other skin infections and is often seen on the lower limbs with pea shaped hardening of the skin. It can also be caused by side effects of spraying perfume/plant juice and gardening in the sun, often on the décolleté, arm or face.

· Hyperpigmentation can also be caused by trauma. A combination of the inflammatory response and ultraviolet causes the inflammation to disrupt the basal cell layer, melanin pigment can then be released but subsequently trapped by macrophages in the papillary layer. Once the wound healing has completed and the junction repaired the melanin pigment granules caught within the dermal layer basically have no way of escape.

· Post – inflammatory hyperpigmentation may require medical treatment and/ or specialist medical products. If the size, shape or colour of dark spots is a concern to you/your client they should contact a dermatologist, pharmacist, doctor or other specialist.

How to prevent Hyperpigmentation

· If in doubt, don’t treat! Work gently. Under-treating is always better than over-treating

· Use and perfect the appropriate techniques, rhythms and lengths of pulse shown/taught in your practical training.

· Only ever use an official Plasma Pen

· Advise the client om all aftercare measure including SPF50 Clients should use topical anti-oxidants to fight sun damage such as vitamin C Serum. The use of citrus juice, aloe Vera and even soy are often cited as good ingredients for preventing hyperpigmentation

· Ensure your clients aftercare regime is followed and leave 3-month windows between treatments on the same precise area.